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THE austere Phillips de Pury & Co headquarters in Victoria was transformed into the most elegant of
Parisian salons last night, as Karl Lagerfeld brought Chanel's annual Maisons d'Art collection - and all
the luxury and chic it stands for - to London. Claudia Schiffer, Thandie Newton, Natalia Vodianova,
Emma Thompson, Stephen Jones, Bella Freud and Chanel muse Lily Allen - resplendent in a midnight
blue cocktail dress by the label - were among the A-list guests who took their seats around low,
monogrammed tables alongside media heavyweights such as Alexandra Shulman, Andre Leon Talley,
Suzy Menkes and Jefferson Hack for the eagerly-anticipated Paris-Londres show. We had been
promised an elegy on the "English chic" aesthetic so beloved of Coco Chanel - and Lagerfeld had done
his research.
Irina Lazareanu and Sean Lennon took to the stage to provide a hauntingly romantic soundtrack to a
sumptuous collection that referenced the decadence of the Tudor court: think flat patent loafers fronted
with huge gem brooches, knickerbockers, stiff, pleated sleeves that sat up off shoulders, bejewelled
leather jousting gloves, oversized knits and reams of tartan tulle. Yet the punk attitude of Lagerfeld's
girls - Agyness Deyn, Anouk Lepere and Daisy Lowe among them - coupled with precision-lined eyes
and beehives that erred more on the side of Winehouse than Bardot kept the feel feisty and current.
Always there was a sense of French elegance - in the cut of the opening dogtooth boucle jackets, or the
lace-edged hem of a stunning cream mini dress - and humourous touches, such as the signature quilted
black Chanel bag reworked as the Union Jack and sculptural shoes where a lightbulb (which actually lit
up), formed the heel, were unmistakeably Lagerfeld touches. The jewel details - which came scattered in
hair, on shoes, coats, dresses and even a mens smoking jacket - and smatterings of crystals worked into
floor-sweeping skirts and a men's velour suit brought to mind raindrops on the fabrics, giving a lush,
organic feel to the clothes that sat easily alongside such an overt expression of luxury. "I loved the whole
look of it," Schiffer told the press afterwards. "Especially the beehives."
Lagerfeld founded the Maison d'Art collection in 2002 to showcase the extraordinary talents of Chanel's
seven specialist ateliers and such is its popularity that the collection is now stocked in all Chanel
boutiques. But business wasn't uppermost on the minds of Chanel's rapt audience last night as they
were swept off to the after party in specially-commissioned Paris-Londres logo'd black cabs – well,
unless you count lusting after one of those diamond embossed box clutches. (December 7 2007, AM)
Leisa Barnett
